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Understanding the New Findings in Skincare
Recent research presented at the 2025 American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) Annual Meeting in Orlando has shed light on the interaction between moisturizers and retinoids, key ingredients known for their anti-aging properties. This study, led by Dr. Asha Patel Shah and her team, highlighted the efficacy of different moisturizer application methods, specifically the "full sandwich" and "open sandwich" approaches. These findings have significant implications for new and long-term users of retinoids, paving the way for better skincare practices.
What Is the "Full Sandwich" vs. "Open Sandwich" Method?
The "full sandwich" method involves applying a moisturizer both before and after the retinoid application. This technique aims to minimize initial skin sensitivity—an oft-noted challenge for newcomers to retinoids like retinol or tretinoin. Conversely, the "open sandwich" approach allows for the water-based moisturizer to be applied either before or after, maintaining retinoid efficiency without compromising skin hydration.
Why the Demand for This Research?
As Adam Ricciardone, Kenvue’s Head of R&D for Global Skin Health & Beauty, observed, dermatologists and consumers alike have long relied on anecdotal evidence concerning the use of moisturizers alongside retinoids. Ricciardone noted a significant gap in empirical research, stating, “Dermatologists were saying, ‘This is what I recommend, but there’s no actual scientific data to prove that it’s the right approach.’” With this study, Kenvue aims to bridge that gap, validating common practices in skincare routines.
The Insights Behind the Data
The study elucidated that the "full sandwich" regimen led to reduced retinoid bioactivity, demonstrating that while it may offer protective benefits, it simultaneously lowers the active ingredient’s penetration into the skin. This is crucial information for first-time users who often struggle with sensitivity but still wish to benefit from retinoids.
Two Regimens, Two User Profiles
Interestingly, the research's differentiation between newcomers and long-term retinoid users is particularly valuable. For those who are just starting their journey with retinoids, using the "full sandwich" method can provide much-needed comfort during the acclimatization process. Meanwhile, seasoned users can adopt the "open sandwich" method, which does not inhibit the effectiveness of retinoids like Neutrogena’s HydroBoost Water Gel or Cream Moisturizer.
What This Means for Skincare Routines
As skincare evolves, understanding the science behind combinations of products becomes increasingly relevant. Consumers often seek clarity on how to optimize their skincare routines. With these new recommendations, users can confidently navigate their options, whether they are entering the retinoid sphere or managing an established regimen. Knowing which moisturizer method aligns with their skin type and treatment goals allows for a more personalized approach to skincare.
What’s Next? Future Trends in Skincare Science
This groundbreaking research hints at a broader trend within the skincare industry, where empirical data begins to lead product development and consumer guidelines. Experts may increasingly prioritize scientific study in their recommendations, fostering a culture where effective, evidence-based skincare becomes the norm. As Ricciardone emphasizes, “There are two viable approaches,” providing users with the flexibility to choose what works for them.
Conclusion: A Call to Embrace Evidence-Based Skincare
Ultimately, these findings advocate for a future where skincare products are not just marketed with anecdotal claims, but are robustly supported by research. As consumers, it’s vital to embrace scientifically-backed strategies, ensuring that skincare routines are not just effective but tailored to individual needs and experiences. Recognizing the role of moisturizers in enhancing retinoid efficacy encourages informed decisions when it comes to skincare. Let's keep an open dialogue about these advancements and continue to seek clarity and confidence in our skincare choices.
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